Kawi Montain (Gunung
Kawi) is an 11th-century temple complex in Tampaksiring north
east of Ubud in Bali, Indonesia. That is spread across
either side of the Pakerisan river. It comprises 10 rock-cut candi (shrines)
that are carved into some 7-metre-high (23 ft) sheltered niches of the
sheer cliff face. These funeral monuments are thought to be dedicated to King Anak
Wungsu of the Udayana dynasty and his favourite queens. On the east side
there are five temples that are dedicated, according to one theory, to King
Udayana, his queen Mahendradatta, and their sons Airlanga, Anak Wungsu, and
Marakata. The temples on the west side are dedicated, according to the same
theory, to the king's minor queens or concubines.
At the bottom of a
lush green river valley is one of Bali's oldest and largest ancient monuments.
Gunung Kawi consists of 10 rock-cut candi (shrines) – memorials cut out of the
rock face in imitation of actual statues. They stand in awe-inspiring 8m-high
sheltered niches cut into the sheer cliff face. Be prepared for long climbs –
it's over 270 steps.
The strenuous walk
is broken up into sections and at times the views as you walk through ancient
terraced rice fields are as fine as any on Bali. Each candi is believed to be a
memorial to a member of the 11th-century Balinese royalty, but little is known
for certain.
Legends relate that
the whole group of memorials was carved out of the rock face in one
hard-working night by the mighty fingernails of Kebo Iwa.
The five monuments
on the eastern bank are probably dedicated to King Udayana, Queen Mahendradatta
and their sons Airlangga, Anak Wungsu and Marakata. While Airlangga ruled
eastern Java, Anak Wungsu ruled Bali. The four monuments on the western side
are, by this theory, to Anak Wungsu's chief concubines. Another theory is that
the whole complex is dedicated to Anak Wungsu, his wives, concubines and, in
the case of the remote 10th candi, to a royal minister.
As you wander
between monuments, temples, offerings, streams and fountains, you can't help
but feel a certain ancient majesty here.
On the northern
outskirts of town, a sign points east off the main road to Gunung Kawi and its
ancient monuments. From the end of the access road, a steep, stone stairway
leads down to the river, at one point cutting through an embankment of solid
rock.